So, here we are January 2011 and snow is on the ground in PEI. Obsession is tucked away in winter storage and my house is overflowing with sailing gear which has been taken off the boat for the winter. Sailing is never far from my mind though. Boat Show season is here. Although the Halifax Boat Show is next month, I don't have a strong desire to go this year. Why? I have been spoiled. Two years in a row now we have attended the United States Sailboat Show in Annapolis, Maryland - the largest in water sailboat show in the world. With over 250 boats in the water and hundreds of exibitors it is a sailor's dream.
As the show is held in early October, we put Obsession to bed for the winter and travelled down to check it out. Once again we met up with friends while we were there and spent two days at the show. All the sailboat manufacturers were there with their new design. We climbed aboard boats from: Beneteau, Hunter, Catalina, Jenneau, J-Boat, Hallbery-Rassey, Hanse, C&C, Island Packet, Gozzard, Dufour, Sabre, and Tartan. We also checked out some catamarans: Fountaine Pajot, Lagoon, Moorings, and Gemini. The new Beneteau Sense was a real highlight - I loved the office. Yet, I remain partial to the Gozzard as a cruising boat. I love the open forward cabin design rather than a traditional v-berth. Surprisingly, I found the 40 foot Hallbery-Rassey felt as cramped as a 30 footer.
Next year's show is October 6-10, 2011. If you go - wear comfortable shoes for walking, bring sun protection, be prepared to take your shoes off to board the boats, and make arrangements for accomodation early. Be sure to spend some time exploring the area while you are there. It is beautiful!
So did we buy anything - not much. But we learned lots, made a to do list for improvements to our boat and dreamed big!
A blog about all things sailing by two sailors obsessed with sailing "Obsession" in Prince Edward Island, the Canadian Maritimes, and points beyond.
Friday, January 7, 2011
Saturday, October 23, 2010
A bittersweet memory
As I write this I am sitting in the Montreal airport waiting for a flight home from a business trip to Ottawa. Obsession is snugly tucked away in winter storage, awaiting a new adventure next year. Our last sail of the season, a month ago now, is just a memory.
It was a Sunday. The air was crisp and clear. The brisk wind had a slight chill, carrying with it the promise of fall. Even the warm sunshine could not completely chase away the hint of the cooler weather to come; but, with a good 10-15 knots of wind, conditions were prime for a late season sail.
Jay and I had offered to bring out some friends for that oft promised sail which had somehow never materialized over the summer, but it was not to be. Our friends were unable to come at the last minute. Though we love sharing our boat with others, we thoroughly enjoy just being the two of us too, so we clambered aboard, did our usual pre-sail checks and readied to make way.
The wind was very co-operative, so we didn't even bother turning on the engine, but unfurled the jib, slipped the dock lines and silently slipped away from the floating dock. Leaving the Montague Marina behind, we sailed down the river under jib alone, enjoying the sun reflecting off the dimples in the water and the warm sunshine. Sheltered from the full force of the wind in the winding river, we drifted leisurely pass the homes and cottages dotting the banks. Off the Lower Montague Wharf, the Montague River widens as it prepares to meet the Brudenell River and then Cardigan Bay. Beyond Panmure Island and Boughton Island which guard either side of the mouth of Cardigan Bay lies the Northumberland Strait. Anxious now to be off, we put up the main sail and sailed out past Georgetown into Cardigan Bay in 10 knots of wind, with the optimum degree of heel, our knotmeter climbing to a respectable 6 knots.
I have often remarked to Jay that Obsession reminds me of a race horse. Her sleek lines and large sails make her a fun boat to sail. Draping the mainsail cover over the mainsail as it lies neatly flaked on the boom after a day of sailing is like wrapping a blanket over the back of a racehorse after a race. That day, I gave Obsession her head. With the sails set and rudder in harmony, Obsession was perfectly balanced. We don't have autohelm on Obsession, but when she is balanced just right you don't need it. She will sail a straight and true course. And that day, she fairly flew across the water, racing for the sheer joy of movement.
I sat on the high side in the cockpit, a windbreaker over my sweater against the slight chill, curled up against Jay's side, the helm in easy reach if the need should arise. But Obsession, she sailed herself. It was as if, on this day, our boat was alive. She knew it was her last sail of the season and was determined to give us a ride we would not forget over the long, cold months of winter.
The water sparkled in the sunshine, the angle of sun's rays causing the small white-capped seas to reflect like brilliant diamonds. The sky was an incredible blue, dotted with cotton-like clouds. The red cliffs of the Island standing out proudly against the dark blue of the sea contrasted with the green farmland, trees with leaves just starting to turn colours and small houses dotting the landscape. I was silenced by the beauty around me. Obsession's sleek bow parted the water effortlessly, dancing over the small waves, leaving a fine mist of spray. The dodger kept us snug and dry as Jay and I sat in comfortable silence, each preoccupied with our own thoughts.
I always feel so alive on the water. I passionately love sailing and when I am not on the boat, my spirit aches. It as if there is a small hollow inside me, a space that is only filled when we are on the water. That day, I was overflowing with joy. I was with the most important person in my life, doing what I most love to do, in absolutely perfect conditions.
As we left Panmure Island behind to our starboard and then Boughton Island behind to our port, neither Jay nor I moved to change course. We let Obsession take us where she willed. She raced over the water, picking up speed to 6.5 knots, sailing by herself out into the Strait. I touched the wheel lightly from time to time, as if to reassure her we were there and still enjoying the ride. Cuddled with Jay in the cockpit, I felt safe and warm, but also incredibly alive. The sounds of the water against the hull and the slight creaking in the rigging as we rose over the waves, the feel of the sun and the wind against my face and the sight of the beautiful scenery around me created a symphony for my senses. It is so easy to take for granted the beauty around us. I feel truly blessed to live in a place as beautiful as Prince Edward Island, but it is so easy to rush from place to place, from task to task and not take the time to enjoy the moment. We lead busy lives. But on our boat I am always fully immersed in the moment.
Sailing requires you to be in tune with what is around you. Your focus must be on the boat, the crew and your surroundings. Whatever the conditions, you must be attuned to the potential for change, the potential for danger, and the potential for joy. This is why I love sailing. It is at once, both so simple and so complicated. And I am always learning.
Skills and knowledge, resiliency, self-reliance, ingenuity, and a willingness to constantly learn are required for sailing. Jay and I have only owned our own boat for three years. In these past three years we have sailed approximately 3000 nautical miles. We have bareboat chartered in the British Virgin Islands. We have sailed around various ports and harbours in Prince Edward Island. We have sailed across the Northumberland Strait quite a number of times, and visited various ports in Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. We have faced various sailing conditions, equipment failures and personal challenges. And each time we slip the dock lines or pull up the anchor we are eager for a new adventure and a new life lesson. Whether the wind is light and we ghost across water so still it becomes a mirror, or we are bouncing over waves in a rolling sea in strong winds, I love the adventure of sailing.
But that day our adventure was bittersweet as I knew it would be our last sailing adventure on Obsession for the year. Eventually, we reluctantly agreed it was time to rein Obsession in and point her bow toward home. She seemed reluctant as I took the wheel and Jay handled the sails, as if knowing that there would be many months ahead spent sitting on the hard. As we reset the sails, Jay took over on the helm and I settled back against the cabin, sheltered by the dodger from the wind which seemed so much colder in this new direction. The wind picked up as we headed back in, requiring us furl in the jib part way. As we drew nearer to land, I tried to burn every sensation into my memory, wondering how many months it would be before I would again be sailing.
We lowered the sails as we passed Lower Montague Wharf and turned on the engine. Jay piloted the boat up the Montague River and we quietly talked about what needed to be done over the next few days to ready the boat to come out of the water the following week. I knew it was almost certainly our last sail as I was off to Ottawa on business for a few days; still, I couldn't bear to take the sails off just in case we could squeak in one more sail. So we agreed to leave the sails on but gather other items that had collected over the summer which we knew we would not need. I went below to pack.
All too soon, we were approaching the last bend in the River and I came topside to attach the fenders and ready the lines. As we drew up to the dock and I stepped off with the bow line and made her fast, I felt a tear threaten. After securing the boat, I climbed back aboard and took the end of the main sail cover. I walked across the cabin top to the mast, my hand on the neatly flaked main sail resting on the boom. I pulled the main sail cover over the sail and around the boom and mast. Again I was reminded of putting a blanket over the shoulders and back of a racehorse. With my arms already around the boom at the mast securing the cover, I couldn't help myself from hugging the boat. Thanks , Obsession, for an amazing sail and a wonderful season. I am counting the days till we go sailing again on another new adventure.
It was a Sunday. The air was crisp and clear. The brisk wind had a slight chill, carrying with it the promise of fall. Even the warm sunshine could not completely chase away the hint of the cooler weather to come; but, with a good 10-15 knots of wind, conditions were prime for a late season sail.
Jay and I had offered to bring out some friends for that oft promised sail which had somehow never materialized over the summer, but it was not to be. Our friends were unable to come at the last minute. Though we love sharing our boat with others, we thoroughly enjoy just being the two of us too, so we clambered aboard, did our usual pre-sail checks and readied to make way.
The wind was very co-operative, so we didn't even bother turning on the engine, but unfurled the jib, slipped the dock lines and silently slipped away from the floating dock. Leaving the Montague Marina behind, we sailed down the river under jib alone, enjoying the sun reflecting off the dimples in the water and the warm sunshine. Sheltered from the full force of the wind in the winding river, we drifted leisurely pass the homes and cottages dotting the banks. Off the Lower Montague Wharf, the Montague River widens as it prepares to meet the Brudenell River and then Cardigan Bay. Beyond Panmure Island and Boughton Island which guard either side of the mouth of Cardigan Bay lies the Northumberland Strait. Anxious now to be off, we put up the main sail and sailed out past Georgetown into Cardigan Bay in 10 knots of wind, with the optimum degree of heel, our knotmeter climbing to a respectable 6 knots.
I have often remarked to Jay that Obsession reminds me of a race horse. Her sleek lines and large sails make her a fun boat to sail. Draping the mainsail cover over the mainsail as it lies neatly flaked on the boom after a day of sailing is like wrapping a blanket over the back of a racehorse after a race. That day, I gave Obsession her head. With the sails set and rudder in harmony, Obsession was perfectly balanced. We don't have autohelm on Obsession, but when she is balanced just right you don't need it. She will sail a straight and true course. And that day, she fairly flew across the water, racing for the sheer joy of movement.
I sat on the high side in the cockpit, a windbreaker over my sweater against the slight chill, curled up against Jay's side, the helm in easy reach if the need should arise. But Obsession, she sailed herself. It was as if, on this day, our boat was alive. She knew it was her last sail of the season and was determined to give us a ride we would not forget over the long, cold months of winter.
The water sparkled in the sunshine, the angle of sun's rays causing the small white-capped seas to reflect like brilliant diamonds. The sky was an incredible blue, dotted with cotton-like clouds. The red cliffs of the Island standing out proudly against the dark blue of the sea contrasted with the green farmland, trees with leaves just starting to turn colours and small houses dotting the landscape. I was silenced by the beauty around me. Obsession's sleek bow parted the water effortlessly, dancing over the small waves, leaving a fine mist of spray. The dodger kept us snug and dry as Jay and I sat in comfortable silence, each preoccupied with our own thoughts.
I always feel so alive on the water. I passionately love sailing and when I am not on the boat, my spirit aches. It as if there is a small hollow inside me, a space that is only filled when we are on the water. That day, I was overflowing with joy. I was with the most important person in my life, doing what I most love to do, in absolutely perfect conditions.
As we left Panmure Island behind to our starboard and then Boughton Island behind to our port, neither Jay nor I moved to change course. We let Obsession take us where she willed. She raced over the water, picking up speed to 6.5 knots, sailing by herself out into the Strait. I touched the wheel lightly from time to time, as if to reassure her we were there and still enjoying the ride. Cuddled with Jay in the cockpit, I felt safe and warm, but also incredibly alive. The sounds of the water against the hull and the slight creaking in the rigging as we rose over the waves, the feel of the sun and the wind against my face and the sight of the beautiful scenery around me created a symphony for my senses. It is so easy to take for granted the beauty around us. I feel truly blessed to live in a place as beautiful as Prince Edward Island, but it is so easy to rush from place to place, from task to task and not take the time to enjoy the moment. We lead busy lives. But on our boat I am always fully immersed in the moment.
Sailing requires you to be in tune with what is around you. Your focus must be on the boat, the crew and your surroundings. Whatever the conditions, you must be attuned to the potential for change, the potential for danger, and the potential for joy. This is why I love sailing. It is at once, both so simple and so complicated. And I am always learning.
Skills and knowledge, resiliency, self-reliance, ingenuity, and a willingness to constantly learn are required for sailing. Jay and I have only owned our own boat for three years. In these past three years we have sailed approximately 3000 nautical miles. We have bareboat chartered in the British Virgin Islands. We have sailed around various ports and harbours in Prince Edward Island. We have sailed across the Northumberland Strait quite a number of times, and visited various ports in Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. We have faced various sailing conditions, equipment failures and personal challenges. And each time we slip the dock lines or pull up the anchor we are eager for a new adventure and a new life lesson. Whether the wind is light and we ghost across water so still it becomes a mirror, or we are bouncing over waves in a rolling sea in strong winds, I love the adventure of sailing.
But that day our adventure was bittersweet as I knew it would be our last sailing adventure on Obsession for the year. Eventually, we reluctantly agreed it was time to rein Obsession in and point her bow toward home. She seemed reluctant as I took the wheel and Jay handled the sails, as if knowing that there would be many months ahead spent sitting on the hard. As we reset the sails, Jay took over on the helm and I settled back against the cabin, sheltered by the dodger from the wind which seemed so much colder in this new direction. The wind picked up as we headed back in, requiring us furl in the jib part way. As we drew nearer to land, I tried to burn every sensation into my memory, wondering how many months it would be before I would again be sailing.
We lowered the sails as we passed Lower Montague Wharf and turned on the engine. Jay piloted the boat up the Montague River and we quietly talked about what needed to be done over the next few days to ready the boat to come out of the water the following week. I knew it was almost certainly our last sail as I was off to Ottawa on business for a few days; still, I couldn't bear to take the sails off just in case we could squeak in one more sail. So we agreed to leave the sails on but gather other items that had collected over the summer which we knew we would not need. I went below to pack.
All too soon, we were approaching the last bend in the River and I came topside to attach the fenders and ready the lines. As we drew up to the dock and I stepped off with the bow line and made her fast, I felt a tear threaten. After securing the boat, I climbed back aboard and took the end of the main sail cover. I walked across the cabin top to the mast, my hand on the neatly flaked main sail resting on the boom. I pulled the main sail cover over the sail and around the boom and mast. Again I was reminded of putting a blanket over the shoulders and back of a racehorse. With my arms already around the boom at the mast securing the cover, I couldn't help myself from hugging the boat. Thanks , Obsession, for an amazing sail and a wonderful season. I am counting the days till we go sailing again on another new adventure.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
The End of Another Season
Another season is over.
Obsession was lifted out of the water for the winter in late September. Shortly thereafter, we left for a couple of weeks for work and play (including a trip to the Annapolis boat show), so there was a bit of a rush to get her winterized.
This is the third time we've prepared her the winter, and it becomes a bit easier each time. The main item is to drain water and fill the pipes with antifreeze to prevent damage as the temperatures freeze. This includes the pipes to and from the sink in the main cabin and the head, the head itself, the water bladder, and the water heater. Also, the bilge has to be cleaned and the bilge lines drained and filled with antifreeze.
The engine itself is cooled with salt water, so the cooling system has to be prepared the same way. This is a bit more difficult. It involves detaching the salt water intake hose from the hull, and being prepared with both a fresh water supply and antifreeze. The intake hose has to be placed in the fresh water while the engine is being started, and then switched to the antifreeze until all the water has been replaced. This is at least a two person job, even easier with three people.
The mast electrical connections have to be protected with lubricant, and the batteries removed. The interior and exterior have to be cleaned and scrubbed. All removable items have to be taken off the boat.
The entire process takes a few days - I'm always amazed by how much we can gather on board over the summer. It always takes longer than planned, so there is usually a rush to get it ready for storage. However, since we store the boat indoors each winter, we know it will be well protected and ready to go again in spring.
Obsession was lifted out of the water for the winter in late September. Shortly thereafter, we left for a couple of weeks for work and play (including a trip to the Annapolis boat show), so there was a bit of a rush to get her winterized.
This is the third time we've prepared her the winter, and it becomes a bit easier each time. The main item is to drain water and fill the pipes with antifreeze to prevent damage as the temperatures freeze. This includes the pipes to and from the sink in the main cabin and the head, the head itself, the water bladder, and the water heater. Also, the bilge has to be cleaned and the bilge lines drained and filled with antifreeze.
The engine itself is cooled with salt water, so the cooling system has to be prepared the same way. This is a bit more difficult. It involves detaching the salt water intake hose from the hull, and being prepared with both a fresh water supply and antifreeze. The intake hose has to be placed in the fresh water while the engine is being started, and then switched to the antifreeze until all the water has been replaced. This is at least a two person job, even easier with three people.
The mast electrical connections have to be protected with lubricant, and the batteries removed. The interior and exterior have to be cleaned and scrubbed. All removable items have to be taken off the boat.
The entire process takes a few days - I'm always amazed by how much we can gather on board over the summer. It always takes longer than planned, so there is usually a rush to get it ready for storage. However, since we store the boat indoors each winter, we know it will be well protected and ready to go again in spring.
Friday, September 3, 2010
When the Winds Blow
This is our third year with Obsession, and today marks the third time we've prepared her for an oncoming hurricane. The first year was clear, but then we had two storms last year, and now our first (and hopefully only) for this year.
It's Friday, and Hurricane Earl is coming up the American East Coast on its way here. Earl had worked its way up to Category 4 hurricane a couple of days ago, but it's now down to Category 1. It's still expected to be Category 1 when it hits Nova Scotia/New Brunswick tomorrow, and down to a tropical storm before it hits PEI. However, that's still plenty strong to do major damage.
Last year, we had two instances. First, Hurricane Bill came north. At the time, we were in the Bras D'Or lakes at the St Peter's Marina. The hurricane track prediction anticipated it would go right over our heads. Fortunately, it veered off at the last minute, and Cape Breton was just brushed by its edges. However, we stripped and prepared the boat for the worst, and suffered no damage.
But, two weeks later, Hurricane Danny paid a visit. By then, we were back in Montague, and sure enough, the expected track was going right over us again. So for the second time, we prepared for the worst. However, Montague is well protected, being in a small valley up the river, so the winds are not as damaging as more exposed locations.
And to think Americans complain about our sending them Canadian Cold Fronts. Look what they give us in return.
When we prepare for a hurricane, we have two classes of actions. The first is to secure the boat. The second is to eliminate potential wind damage, either to sails or from flying projectiles.
Securing the boat to the mooring means doubling and tripling our dock lines. Essentially, we take all of the lines we have, and tie them between the boat and the dock. Sailboats are designed to handle strong winds, but they assume that the winds are used to move the boat. The situation is a bit different when you're tied to a dock, and don't want to move. Imagine holding up a 30-foot long piece of plywood against 50 knot winds - that's how much force is on a boat if the wind hits it broadside. With plenty of lines, the boat can withstand this force and stay tied to the dock. However, we have to hope that the docks are strong enough to withstand this force on many boats without breaking. Fortunately, this year, we were moved from our normal, outside, docking area, to a more secure dock, so we should be fine in that regard.
When the boat is at dock, the jib is normally furled around the forestay, and the main is tied up on the boom. However, in a strong wind, neither of these methods are fully satisfactory, as the wind can get in and cause the sails to break loose. The resulting winds can easily shred sails that cost thousands of dollars. So, we strip the sails off completely, and put them below decks.
Finally, all of the items on deck have to be taken off and stored belowdeck or removed and taken home. This includes safety items (life ring and man overboard pole), and the variety of other items that are often tied onto a boat for convenience. In tropical force winds, these items can take flight and cause a lot of damage.
Now that we've prepared as much as we can for tomorrow's storm, all we can do is sit and wait. We've taken the best precautions that we can. We only hope that other boats around us have done the same, and that we don't suffer damage as a result of someone else's sloppy preparations.
It's Friday, and Hurricane Earl is coming up the American East Coast on its way here. Earl had worked its way up to Category 4 hurricane a couple of days ago, but it's now down to Category 1. It's still expected to be Category 1 when it hits Nova Scotia/New Brunswick tomorrow, and down to a tropical storm before it hits PEI. However, that's still plenty strong to do major damage.
Last year, we had two instances. First, Hurricane Bill came north. At the time, we were in the Bras D'Or lakes at the St Peter's Marina. The hurricane track prediction anticipated it would go right over our heads. Fortunately, it veered off at the last minute, and Cape Breton was just brushed by its edges. However, we stripped and prepared the boat for the worst, and suffered no damage.
But, two weeks later, Hurricane Danny paid a visit. By then, we were back in Montague, and sure enough, the expected track was going right over us again. So for the second time, we prepared for the worst. However, Montague is well protected, being in a small valley up the river, so the winds are not as damaging as more exposed locations.
And to think Americans complain about our sending them Canadian Cold Fronts. Look what they give us in return.
When we prepare for a hurricane, we have two classes of actions. The first is to secure the boat. The second is to eliminate potential wind damage, either to sails or from flying projectiles.
Securing the boat to the mooring means doubling and tripling our dock lines. Essentially, we take all of the lines we have, and tie them between the boat and the dock. Sailboats are designed to handle strong winds, but they assume that the winds are used to move the boat. The situation is a bit different when you're tied to a dock, and don't want to move. Imagine holding up a 30-foot long piece of plywood against 50 knot winds - that's how much force is on a boat if the wind hits it broadside. With plenty of lines, the boat can withstand this force and stay tied to the dock. However, we have to hope that the docks are strong enough to withstand this force on many boats without breaking. Fortunately, this year, we were moved from our normal, outside, docking area, to a more secure dock, so we should be fine in that regard.
When the boat is at dock, the jib is normally furled around the forestay, and the main is tied up on the boom. However, in a strong wind, neither of these methods are fully satisfactory, as the wind can get in and cause the sails to break loose. The resulting winds can easily shred sails that cost thousands of dollars. So, we strip the sails off completely, and put them below decks.
Finally, all of the items on deck have to be taken off and stored belowdeck or removed and taken home. This includes safety items (life ring and man overboard pole), and the variety of other items that are often tied onto a boat for convenience. In tropical force winds, these items can take flight and cause a lot of damage.
Now that we've prepared as much as we can for tomorrow's storm, all we can do is sit and wait. We've taken the best precautions that we can. We only hope that other boats around us have done the same, and that we don't suffer damage as a result of someone else's sloppy preparations.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Anchorages of the Bras D'Or
As I mentioned in my last blog, we have tried to spend more time at anchor on this trip to the Bras D'Or, and we have managed to visit a few spots. The Bras D'Or Lakes are brimming with coves, harbours, and inlets where you can easily find some seclusion and protection from almost any wind direction. We have only scratched the surface of the great locations over here, and we have plenty more destinations on our list of future visits.
Our thoughts this year was to alternate between anchorages and marinas. While we are quite comfortable at anchorage in Obsession, the lack of refrigeration means we have to get more ice for the icebox every other day. Also, Obsession doesn't have a particularly large water tank. We can probably get by for three days or so with the water we carry, but then it gets down and we're more comfortable stopping and refilling it. After all, we need our daily shower!
Cape George is a popular spot during the day - which in our experience means you can expect about a half dozen boats on a nice day. Although we didn't anchor overnight, we did spend an afternoon here. As in most areas in the Lakes, the water is deep enough to allow you to anchor relatively close to the shore. This is a big difference from PEI, where the sand bars keep you out quite a distance. This cove is at the Lake end of St Peters Inlet, just before entering the wider part of the Lakes. For Obsession, it is just a bit over an hour for us to motor here from St Peters Marina, so it's a perfect spot to take family for a day.
This is the second year that we anchored in the Crammond Islands. These two islands lie close to each other, and are just three miles north of Dundee Marina. To get to the mid-island anchorage area, you pass through the channel, which then opens up into a circular, well-sheltered area.
We spent a night anchored in Little Harbour this year for the first time. I had been wanting to check out this place since I first heard about it, and we finally made it this year. This has quickly become one of our favourite spots. You almost have to be right on top of the entrance before you can even see it. The entrance to the harbour is very narrow - probably less than 100 feet across in places. However, it is quite deep and there is no problem getting in with our 6 foot keel. Once through, it opens out into a circular bay with plenty of room for dozens of boats. It is extremely quiet and isolated. There were three other boats in the harbour while we were there, at least two of which were unoccupied (we couldn't tell if there was anyone on the third boat or not). We spent a wonderful afternoon and night at this spot, totally set apart from the rest of the world.
Orangedale is a bit off the main track for the Bras D'Or Lakes, but we wanted to explore this section. The wind was not entirely cooperative, so we had to motor for about two hours through the sometimes narrow passages to get to Orangedale. Once there, we buzzed by the community (which is quite small). Although the cruising guides say that there is enough water at the end of the dock for us, we didn't actually stop at the town. We anchored in MacDonald's Cove next to the town, again with no one else around.
On the north side of Iona, Maskell's Harbour is midway from the Barra Strait Bridge to Baddeck. Since it is only few miles from Baddeck, this is a very popular day trip. We anchored for the night, along with a half dozen other boats. It is large enough that we had a whole section of the harbour to ourselves, and none of the boats interfered with each other. There is a small peninsula that extends out from land to the midpoint of the harbour, and most boats like to tuck in behind this bar. When we arrived, there were already a few boats in there, so we anchored on the other side, near the beach.
Our final anchorage on this trip was in Deep Cove, west of Baddeck. We had this area to ourselves. It is smaller than most of the other places we had stayed in, with only swing room for a handful of boats. Again, the harbour was quiet and isolated, with no one else in sight.
It's always surprising that the Bras D'Or aren't more crowded with cruising boats. For a relatively small area, there are so many quiet, interesting, and scenic spots to check out. There are enough marinas and facilities for regular resupply, and hundreds of isloated spots to explore. Most of the time, we had an entire anchorage or harbour to ourselves. There would be only one or two houses even in sight, and often no roads anywhere nearby.
This was our third visit to the Bras D'Or Lakes with Obsession, and it won't be the last.
Our thoughts this year was to alternate between anchorages and marinas. While we are quite comfortable at anchorage in Obsession, the lack of refrigeration means we have to get more ice for the icebox every other day. Also, Obsession doesn't have a particularly large water tank. We can probably get by for three days or so with the water we carry, but then it gets down and we're more comfortable stopping and refilling it. After all, we need our daily shower!
Cape George is a popular spot during the day - which in our experience means you can expect about a half dozen boats on a nice day. Although we didn't anchor overnight, we did spend an afternoon here. As in most areas in the Lakes, the water is deep enough to allow you to anchor relatively close to the shore. This is a big difference from PEI, where the sand bars keep you out quite a distance. This cove is at the Lake end of St Peters Inlet, just before entering the wider part of the Lakes. For Obsession, it is just a bit over an hour for us to motor here from St Peters Marina, so it's a perfect spot to take family for a day.
This is the second year that we anchored in the Crammond Islands. These two islands lie close to each other, and are just three miles north of Dundee Marina. To get to the mid-island anchorage area, you pass through the channel, which then opens up into a circular, well-sheltered area.
We spent a night anchored in Little Harbour this year for the first time. I had been wanting to check out this place since I first heard about it, and we finally made it this year. This has quickly become one of our favourite spots. You almost have to be right on top of the entrance before you can even see it. The entrance to the harbour is very narrow - probably less than 100 feet across in places. However, it is quite deep and there is no problem getting in with our 6 foot keel. Once through, it opens out into a circular bay with plenty of room for dozens of boats. It is extremely quiet and isolated. There were three other boats in the harbour while we were there, at least two of which were unoccupied (we couldn't tell if there was anyone on the third boat or not). We spent a wonderful afternoon and night at this spot, totally set apart from the rest of the world.
Orangedale is a bit off the main track for the Bras D'Or Lakes, but we wanted to explore this section. The wind was not entirely cooperative, so we had to motor for about two hours through the sometimes narrow passages to get to Orangedale. Once there, we buzzed by the community (which is quite small). Although the cruising guides say that there is enough water at the end of the dock for us, we didn't actually stop at the town. We anchored in MacDonald's Cove next to the town, again with no one else around.
On the north side of Iona, Maskell's Harbour is midway from the Barra Strait Bridge to Baddeck. Since it is only few miles from Baddeck, this is a very popular day trip. We anchored for the night, along with a half dozen other boats. It is large enough that we had a whole section of the harbour to ourselves, and none of the boats interfered with each other. There is a small peninsula that extends out from land to the midpoint of the harbour, and most boats like to tuck in behind this bar. When we arrived, there were already a few boats in there, so we anchored on the other side, near the beach.
Our final anchorage on this trip was in Deep Cove, west of Baddeck. We had this area to ourselves. It is smaller than most of the other places we had stayed in, with only swing room for a handful of boats. Again, the harbour was quiet and isolated, with no one else in sight.
It's always surprising that the Bras D'Or aren't more crowded with cruising boats. For a relatively small area, there are so many quiet, interesting, and scenic spots to check out. There are enough marinas and facilities for regular resupply, and hundreds of isloated spots to explore. Most of the time, we had an entire anchorage or harbour to ourselves. There would be only one or two houses even in sight, and often no roads anywhere nearby.
This was our third visit to the Bras D'Or Lakes with Obsession, and it won't be the last.
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