Wednesday, July 9, 2014
Mr.& Mrs. Wood & Patsy Green
While visiting the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton NY we came across this display about a couple from New York who voyaged by small canoe 900 miles from New York to Prince Edward Island over the summers of 1907 and 1908. Henry and Elizabeth Wood averaged 35 miles a day and stayed ashore either camping or in private homes. Their vessel was the Patsy Green which they had specifically modified so they could paddle it on the ocean. It did have two small sails to augment their paddling. Henry was a founder of the Cruising Club of America. What an adventure that must have been.
Sleeping in a washing machine
On Tuesday this week, we left Clayton and decided to head to Cape Vincent NY. There was a squall watch in effect for that evening and so we thought we would move on as we were fairly exposed on the municipal pier in Clayton. Cape Vincent is about 13NM from Clayton and a ferry from Wolfe Island runs seasonally to this small village. There was about 15-20 knots of wind right on our nose the whole way so we motored.
The waterfront in Cape Vincent is protected by a 1300' breakwater and as we passed behind the breakwater the wind eased to less than 10 knots and the water was calm. What a picturesque site greeted us. Several homes with docks lined the waterfront. One small power boat was on a mooring ball within the breakwater and several other boats were tied up to either the public village pier or the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) pier.
It was mid afternoon so we thought we would refill our diesel. Although several of the cruising guides indicate there is diesel available at Anchor Marine, when we pulled up and docked at the fuel dock, the office was closed and locked and no one was anywhere about. Deciding to find a spot for the night and see what we could learn about available diesel, we shoved off again. Our choices were to anchor inside the breakwater, which was listed as a fair weather anchorage, the town dock or DEC pier, both of which offer free dockage.
With the forecast thunderstorm and squall watch, we immediately dismissed the anchorage. The space available between two power boats already on the town dock seemed too short for My Obsession and there were no facilities. The guidebooks had mentioned the DEC pier location had bathroom facilities during the hours of 8am and 4pm and a small Aquarium to visit. Two sailboats were tied to the more protected east side of the DEC dock already and a third was on the west side. We watched as this sailboat was warped around so it was bow out and then we called over to see if there was room in front of them. There was. Unfortunately there was another private dock to our starboard which stuck out far enough that coming about and docking starboard side in was not really possible for our boat. The small sailboat in front of us had barely cleared the dock when it warped around. So, we docked bow in. This turned out to be a bad decision.
We chatted briefly with the couples from the other sailboats who seemed to all be from Collins Bay. Then we went ashore and explored Cape Vincent. Although smaller than Clayton it offers groceries, a Laundromat, gas station, a few small shops and restaurants. We also explored the small aquarium located in the basement of the DEC building located immediately in front of the DEC pier. The building is a imposing five story stone building which was originally built as a mill.
It was hot and sticky and after supper we sat in the cockpit reading. Around 7 it began to rain and there was a thunderstorm which cooled the air. Then the wind picked up and shifted so it was coming in between the end of the breakwater and land. Small waves picked up and began hitting us on our rear starboard quarter. The boat started pitching and bouncing. The wind increased to about 20-25 knots sustained and it was pressing My Obsession hard against the dock.
As darkness set in, the motion of the boat only worsened. Luckily neither Jay not I are prone to seasickness. It was, however, hard to move around down below the boat was bouncing so much. I have never been in the boat when it was hobby horsing and rolling and pitching so badly and tied to a dock. And it kept up all night. It was like trying to sleep in a washing machine.
The two sailboats on the west side were also bouncing as the waves would hit the shore and rebound, but they were not moving as much as we were. Unfortunately for the couple in the sailboat tied up in front of us, they were bouncing even more than us. Their boat was shorter and lighter and was pitching worse than a bucking bronco. I felt very bad for them as I knew it had to be even more uncomfortable for them than it was for us.
We had all 5 fenders out and extra lines so My Obsession fared fine. Better than us in fact. We slept fitfully. As we sleep with our heads on the port side, the noise of the lines creaking reverberated loudly in our ears. We were out on deck with flashlights three times during the night to reposition fenders and check lines. We did get a few hours sleep, but not many. To make matters worse, the DEC building imposing by day, looked ominous at night with red lights glowing from the windows. Logic tells me that the red lights were likely from exit signs in this public building, but in the night with the wind howling, the wind turbine shrieking, the lines creaking and the boat rigging moaning, my imagination was conjuring something decidedly more evil.
At 7am when I woke up I looked out to see the couple in the boat in front of us shoving off. We exchanged a few words and it was clear they had spent a horrid night aboard. They moved over to the town pier which was better protected. I noted that they just fit into the open spot between the two power boats. I felt better knowing we couldn't have fit there even if we had wanted to.
Although the wind had eased, and so had the motion of the boat, Cape Vincent had lost its charm. It was time to move on. I was ready for a quiet anchorage and a good nap.
The waterfront in Cape Vincent is protected by a 1300' breakwater and as we passed behind the breakwater the wind eased to less than 10 knots and the water was calm. What a picturesque site greeted us. Several homes with docks lined the waterfront. One small power boat was on a mooring ball within the breakwater and several other boats were tied up to either the public village pier or the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) pier.
It was mid afternoon so we thought we would refill our diesel. Although several of the cruising guides indicate there is diesel available at Anchor Marine, when we pulled up and docked at the fuel dock, the office was closed and locked and no one was anywhere about. Deciding to find a spot for the night and see what we could learn about available diesel, we shoved off again. Our choices were to anchor inside the breakwater, which was listed as a fair weather anchorage, the town dock or DEC pier, both of which offer free dockage.
With the forecast thunderstorm and squall watch, we immediately dismissed the anchorage. The space available between two power boats already on the town dock seemed too short for My Obsession and there were no facilities. The guidebooks had mentioned the DEC pier location had bathroom facilities during the hours of 8am and 4pm and a small Aquarium to visit. Two sailboats were tied to the more protected east side of the DEC dock already and a third was on the west side. We watched as this sailboat was warped around so it was bow out and then we called over to see if there was room in front of them. There was. Unfortunately there was another private dock to our starboard which stuck out far enough that coming about and docking starboard side in was not really possible for our boat. The small sailboat in front of us had barely cleared the dock when it warped around. So, we docked bow in. This turned out to be a bad decision.
We chatted briefly with the couples from the other sailboats who seemed to all be from Collins Bay. Then we went ashore and explored Cape Vincent. Although smaller than Clayton it offers groceries, a Laundromat, gas station, a few small shops and restaurants. We also explored the small aquarium located in the basement of the DEC building located immediately in front of the DEC pier. The building is a imposing five story stone building which was originally built as a mill.
It was hot and sticky and after supper we sat in the cockpit reading. Around 7 it began to rain and there was a thunderstorm which cooled the air. Then the wind picked up and shifted so it was coming in between the end of the breakwater and land. Small waves picked up and began hitting us on our rear starboard quarter. The boat started pitching and bouncing. The wind increased to about 20-25 knots sustained and it was pressing My Obsession hard against the dock.
As darkness set in, the motion of the boat only worsened. Luckily neither Jay not I are prone to seasickness. It was, however, hard to move around down below the boat was bouncing so much. I have never been in the boat when it was hobby horsing and rolling and pitching so badly and tied to a dock. And it kept up all night. It was like trying to sleep in a washing machine.
The two sailboats on the west side were also bouncing as the waves would hit the shore and rebound, but they were not moving as much as we were. Unfortunately for the couple in the sailboat tied up in front of us, they were bouncing even more than us. Their boat was shorter and lighter and was pitching worse than a bucking bronco. I felt very bad for them as I knew it had to be even more uncomfortable for them than it was for us.
We had all 5 fenders out and extra lines so My Obsession fared fine. Better than us in fact. We slept fitfully. As we sleep with our heads on the port side, the noise of the lines creaking reverberated loudly in our ears. We were out on deck with flashlights three times during the night to reposition fenders and check lines. We did get a few hours sleep, but not many. To make matters worse, the DEC building imposing by day, looked ominous at night with red lights glowing from the windows. Logic tells me that the red lights were likely from exit signs in this public building, but in the night with the wind howling, the wind turbine shrieking, the lines creaking and the boat rigging moaning, my imagination was conjuring something decidedly more evil.
At 7am when I woke up I looked out to see the couple in the boat in front of us shoving off. We exchanged a few words and it was clear they had spent a horrid night aboard. They moved over to the town pier which was better protected. I noted that they just fit into the open spot between the two power boats. I felt better knowing we couldn't have fit there even if we had wanted to.
Although the wind had eased, and so had the motion of the boat, Cape Vincent had lost its charm. It was time to move on. I was ready for a quiet anchorage and a good nap.
Clayton NY and the Antique Boat Museum
Clayton NY was our first stop when we entered the US on
Sunday. We tied up to the Municipal Pier for two nights. There were bathrooms
and showers and power available. You can tie up to the municipal pier for four
hours for free and the overnight charge is very reasonable. We saw several
people arrive by boat from one of the nearby islands and wander into town for a
few hours and then return with a doggie bag of leftovers. Groceries, shops and
restaurants are all within easy walking distance of the town docks.
We had considered anchoring, but the bay was not very
protected from the wind. It meant things were a bit bouncy on the pier during the
day as we were exposed to the wind and the wakes of passing boats, but the wind
died down in the evening and we had a comfortable night’s sleep both
nights.
There was a bit of drama on Sunday afternoon as two
ambulances arrived at the pier and the fire rescue boat and a police boat
pulled up. A power boat had hit a rock off Clayton and began sinking. Luckily
the four people on board were all safe. It does remind one how quickly a fun
afternoon on the water can turn dangerous.
There was a lot of
rain on Monday morning so we stayed in the cockpit and read our books. Later in
the day we went out for lunch, picked up some provisions from the grocery store
we had scouted out the day before and dropped by Scoops for some yummy ice cream.
On Tuesday morning we visited the Antique Boat Museum. This
is a great museum located right beside the municipal pier. They have a large selection
of boats on display. The highlight was “La duchesse”, a house boat originally
built as a summer home for George Boldt, of Boldt Castle fame. The boat had
sunk in its berth at the end of the war and the first floor was submerged for
four months. The boat was salvaged and restored by Mr. McNally of Rand McNally
fame and he used it as his summer home until his death in 2005.
For a wooden boat that is 100 years old it is in remarkable
shape. The interior is almost all mahogany and absolutely beautiful. It has several guest rooms downstairs and
bathrooms with claw foot tubs, several rooms for servants quarters, a dining
room, large kitchen, and upstairs a master suite, parlour, office and outdoor
patio. Several of the ceilings had gold leaf decoration. There is a lovely Steinway
piano aboard and a lovely antique pewter collection.
The boat has never had a motor and has always been towed
from location to location. Standing on the deck you could almost imagine the
boat filled with visitors and Mr. Boldt or Mr. McNally holding court.Sunday, July 6, 2014
Necessity is the mother of invention
Just when we thought we had dealt with our cooking challenges by getting the new BBQ part and new propane tank, the thermocoupler went in the oven. Now as soon as it starts to warm up even a bit the oven turns off. Unless you hold in the knob. Now holding in a knob w
hile sitting on the floor of the boat is just no fun at all. And we use our oven a lot. Jay makes muffins for breakfast often. We also make meals like lasagna, roast potatoes, nachos or pizza.
So as we lamented the week delay it would take for the new part to be shipped from the manufacturer and the sore fingers we would have holding in the knob, inspiration struck. This bottle of vegetable oil fits perfectly between the bar in front of the stove and the knob to hold it in. Pizza is back on the menu tonight!
hile sitting on the floor of the boat is just no fun at all. And we use our oven a lot. Jay makes muffins for breakfast often. We also make meals like lasagna, roast potatoes, nachos or pizza.
Saturday, July 5, 2014
Inertia
As we sit at anchor in the Navy Islands for the third night in a row, I can't help but feel that maybe we should have hauled anchor and headed out to explore further. But this anchorage is so comfortable, it is hard to get motivated. It has been 2 weeks today since we left the dock in Portsmouth Olympic Harbour. We spent the first night in Brakey Bay and then spent a night in Beau Rivage. These two familiar anchorages have been favourites of ours over the past two summers. Beau Rivage is very close to Ganaoque. The third night out we came up to the Navy Islands and we have spent much of the last 10 days here.
We did head back to Kingston area for a night last week. We went to Kerr Bay on the 25th of June and then on the following day anchored in Collins Bay. We went ashore with Ducky and the laundry and trekked a few hundred meters down the highway from the public boat launch where we had tied up to the Laundromat. We also went across the street to Marine Outfitters for a couple of boat parts. Unfortunately, although the BBQ part had come in, it was the wrong size and had to be reordered. After laundry, we went in to the Marina to top off fuel and get a pump out. As we pulled away I couldn't help but think this was likely the last time we wold be at that marina, which had been our home for the last two summers.
We headed back to Brakey Bay for another night, this time we had it completely to ourselves.
Then on the Friday returned to the Navy Islands. We like the anchorage here because it is well protected from all directions, is pretty, and we can access internet when we need to do work.
We spent the weekend before Canada Day working and visiting. On the Sunday morning, friends came along on Ramble On and we rafted with them for a few hours. Jay and the others tried the water, but when people tell me it is "refreshing" I shy away from getting more than my toes wet. I am such a wimp from the cold.
In fact, I gave myself hives with an ice cube the other day - my cold allergy asserting itself. It was hot last weekend - 30 degrees - and Jay was getting drinks. He accidentally dropped an ice cube so decided he would throw it at me for fun. It seemed like a good idea to rub it along my neck to cool off. Not long afterwards - hives! They weren't too serious and subsided relatively quickly.
On the Sunday afternoon other friends on Renatus 1 came by and we shared few laughs, munchies and drinks. I certainly will miss our friends from Ontario when we head east.
On Monday we finally left the Navy Islands for a day sail with my brother and his girlfriend, but we were back again that evening.
Canada Day dawned nice and sunny but a squall warning was issued for the afternoon. We pulled anchor late morning and took a slip for two nights at Gananoque Municipal Marina. It was Ribfest so we had a chance to take in some Canada Day activities, including fireworks, and eat some yummy ribs. It was also a chance for a long shower, laundry, resupplying and recharging batteries.
On Thursday this week our friend Jane gave us a lift into Kingston to pick up the new propane tank (Yeah! It fits!) and the now properly sized part for the BBQ. So Thursday night we returned to the Navy Islands. Does anyone see a pattern here?
Although we had planned on 5 weeks of cruising in the Thousand Islands before heading east, we have spent a lot of nights in the one anchorage! However, we have also been very busy with work and have submitted three work proposals and are working on two more. I guess one can hardly complain when your mobile office has a great view.
We did head back to Kingston area for a night last week. We went to Kerr Bay on the 25th of June and then on the following day anchored in Collins Bay. We went ashore with Ducky and the laundry and trekked a few hundred meters down the highway from the public boat launch where we had tied up to the Laundromat. We also went across the street to Marine Outfitters for a couple of boat parts. Unfortunately, although the BBQ part had come in, it was the wrong size and had to be reordered. After laundry, we went in to the Marina to top off fuel and get a pump out. As we pulled away I couldn't help but think this was likely the last time we wold be at that marina, which had been our home for the last two summers.
We headed back to Brakey Bay for another night, this time we had it completely to ourselves.
Then on the Friday returned to the Navy Islands. We like the anchorage here because it is well protected from all directions, is pretty, and we can access internet when we need to do work.
We spent the weekend before Canada Day working and visiting. On the Sunday morning, friends came along on Ramble On and we rafted with them for a few hours. Jay and the others tried the water, but when people tell me it is "refreshing" I shy away from getting more than my toes wet. I am such a wimp from the cold.
In fact, I gave myself hives with an ice cube the other day - my cold allergy asserting itself. It was hot last weekend - 30 degrees - and Jay was getting drinks. He accidentally dropped an ice cube so decided he would throw it at me for fun. It seemed like a good idea to rub it along my neck to cool off. Not long afterwards - hives! They weren't too serious and subsided relatively quickly.
On the Sunday afternoon other friends on Renatus 1 came by and we shared few laughs, munchies and drinks. I certainly will miss our friends from Ontario when we head east.
On Monday we finally left the Navy Islands for a day sail with my brother and his girlfriend, but we were back again that evening.
Canada Day dawned nice and sunny but a squall warning was issued for the afternoon. We pulled anchor late morning and took a slip for two nights at Gananoque Municipal Marina. It was Ribfest so we had a chance to take in some Canada Day activities, including fireworks, and eat some yummy ribs. It was also a chance for a long shower, laundry, resupplying and recharging batteries.
On Thursday this week our friend Jane gave us a lift into Kingston to pick up the new propane tank (Yeah! It fits!) and the now properly sized part for the BBQ. So Thursday night we returned to the Navy Islands. Does anyone see a pattern here?
Although we had planned on 5 weeks of cruising in the Thousand Islands before heading east, we have spent a lot of nights in the one anchorage! However, we have also been very busy with work and have submitted three work proposals and are working on two more. I guess one can hardly complain when your mobile office has a great view.
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